RF Generation Message Board

What do you all think of them?

I've got 3 of them.  I've gotten really good at boiling the pin connectors on the original model 1 NES consoles and I'm really gravitating towards using those more again.

I only play NES on a CRT so the RF isn't that big of a deal with the Top Loader but the vertical line issues is noticeable especially after playing on a model 1 for awhile.

I'm a weird collector as in sometimes I feel like I need backups.  But another part of me is thinking, "man just sell two of the Top Loaders and go for Ducktales 2 or Might Final Fight." 

I do like the Top Loader for its ease of use and testing out new games or if I'm swapping in and out a lot of carts and playing quick bursts of multiple games.

I'm the kind of guy who likes having backups of his backups, but I also like to find good homes for goodies. There will likely never be another way to play NES games you like as much as on an ol' toaster, but there's more and more ways to play the old carts. I have to admit I've recently pined for a Retron 5 just to see some of these ol' classics through HDMI.

So I'm not really helping with an answer, but those are my thoughts.

I dislike that the top loader is RF only, but would never mod or sell mine. It's nice to have at least one working NES in the house, but for the most part, I just play the Retron 5, or even 3, for classic console. Powerbase Converter + Retron 5 = SMS in HDMI FTW!!

I have one toploader and one frontloader.  The frontloader I use when I'm streaming on Twitch, the toploader I use when I just want to play a game and have it work the first time I turn it on.  They both have their charm.

I never use my toploader. RF is just not acceptable to me. My AV Famicom does get a lot of love though. Lately I just use the Retron5 to play NES games. Much simpler and it looks fantastic. I'll be grabbing the AVS from RetroUSB once they release it as well.

If I were you, I would sell off the extra toploaders. That is what I did.

I traded my Top Loader for a CIB Steel Battalion for the Xbox. Before that I used it to test games but played on a front loading NES.

Cool to see the Retron5 mentioned more than once.  I've been thinking about picking one up but I still have a working CRT and I know this sounds silly but part of the fun for me is playing the old carts through an older console. 

Maybe I should trim it down to just the one top loader though.

I imagine the top loader would be a million times easier to use with my Famicom carts and Gyromite converter, although if it came to that I would just get a A/V Famicom and skip the NES top loader.

Nothing weird about wanting to have back-up consoles. I would definitely consider getting rid of two of them though so you still have one + however many toasters.

I've had a top loader ever since I was 7 and it's one of those consoles I can't bear to get rid of, even though I've got four (!) other NES/Famicom consoles to play on. Mine however's been gussied up with an NESRGB and I replaced the original back panel (the plastic piece with the power jack and holes for the RF jack and channel switch) with a 3D-printed piece that incorporates an SNES multiout. Modding one for composite video output isn't too hard though, and if you do it properly, the video quality is on par with a front loader.

Still I'd highly recommend the AV Famicom as others have said, especially since you can get NES converters for somewhat cheap. The AV Fami is easier to mod for RGB too since it's already got the multiout jack.

I had a top loader for a little bit and I just never got used to the design of it. I think it's one of the ugliest consoles ever made. The success rate for games starting up is a lot better than the NES-101 but it just looks cheap and awkward; like an overweight prostitute.

I would really like to get a NES top loader myself, but its always so frick'n expensive, people wanting 100-200$ USD for one, its crazy, I would LOVE to get one, but sadly I cant due to price. I would like to see the "Blinking light win" kickstarter work out and replace the 72pin connector on my original NES-001 for more reliability.

My top loader is part of my retro gaming setup.  When I want to flash back to when I originally played the NES, I am okay with the RF to CRT distortion.  I don't record the gameplay, but do appreciate that I never get the flashing light.

the flashing light is not a mechanism of the 72 pin connector, it has to do with the lockout chip. If you remove the 4th leg from the chip, the "10NES" chip, I believe it's called, it will put an end to the annoying blinking and also will allow you to play the Panesian cartridges (don't know if it works for PAL games or any other unlicensed, I've only tried Peek a Boo Poker). I thought I remember hearing that it disables the region lockout altogether but don't quote me on that.

i've done the lockout chip mod myself and while it does help, it doesn't completely eliminate the problem. i still regularly get the blinking light and pink screen because my 72 pin connector is getting worn out.

I think they're cool, I recently found one in the trash (for real) with 8 games and it works, I get some weird RF Snow/Static when I play games, and it's for that reason that I want to either mod it for a clear picture or find a toaster NES (One of my RL friends told me I can have his NES with a broken 72 pin connector)

It could be the RF adapter or a badly grounded connector. Mine would throw static if the RF adapter was hanging down, rather than resting.

If it was a badly grounded connector what would I have to do to fix it?

Good to know.  I've thought of doing this mod but have now reconsidered.  For what it is worth, this is the guide I found online regarding cleaning and maintenance of the toaster NES.

http://www.cgquarterly.com/articles/blinknes.htm

It may require soldering. I'm not an expert on it, but there are people here who could help explain.

Anyone know anything about the connector in the top loader? Is there any way to swap it out with the other NES connector, with a bit of modding?

The pin connector is soldered directly to the board, its not as simple as a switch out or boil cleaning you can do with the toasters. You can only swap it out with another top loader pin connector and if you need to take it off for a deep cleaning then you'll spend an hour at least on the de-soldering and re-soldering alone.

When I did a deep cleaning of mine I just gave it a big alcohol bath and scrubbed whatever was leftover. I haven't had any problems with the unit itself. My cords on the other hand...